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I have
been adding a great collection of reprinted articles and ads on men's
fashion from my collection of vintage magazines. Hope these will help
you better acquaint yourself with the styles of the past.
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Here
is the fashion pictorial from Gentry Magazine, Number 19, Summer
1956
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Silk is the perfect suiting for summer, but for men it has always
had one big drawback. It has never had the adaptability of woolens
and worsteds on the designer's drawing board and the weaver loom.
Fine glen plaids have never been successfully incorporated into silk
for the men's suits - until now. Gentry's stylists, working hand
in hand with the master silk technicians of the Japanese firm of
Kanebo, have finally licked the problem. Under this tissue you see
a swatch of the first bolt of silk ever made with a glen weave. Superbly
different in design, the material has still other remarkable qualities.
It is a 4 1/2 ounce cloth, which makes for great lightness and coolness.
It has fine wearing qualities, with a life span that will stretch
through many hot seasons. Its wrinkles expired overnight on the hanger.
On the facing page (Above)you see the first jacket ever made of this
cloth. We had it designed and executed by Chipp, custom tailors of
New York
East 44th Street, under the supervision of Robert DiFalco. It's a
three-button model, buttonable at the top or middle. Its lapels are
extra narrow. Its patch pockets are smaller than usual, in deference
to the fabric's design. Its coin pocket is not patch, to stop your
loose change from bulging. (The flap on this pocket can be worn inside
or out. ) The jacket is lined with silk black pongee, full-lined
to make it hang with perfect aplomb, and it has a long back vent.
We consider it a handsome addition to nay man's summer closet ; if
you concur, you can take this blueprint to your tailor.

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| The trend toward brighter contrasts in men's clothing started
with daytime apparel ; it's been working its way only gradually
into evening wear. This season, finally, it seems to be bursting
into full flower. The evening shirt opposite(two pictures
above) is about the most daring venture thus far into neon
hues for
night
life.
Imported from Italy, it represents a combination of the frilled
and pleated evening shirt with the colorful bull-ring shirt
of the matador. The lace front can be worn all-white, or
with colored ribbon easily inserted into the lace. Comes
with four ribbons of different colors.
Above, Lord Monson trims his white dinner jacket with
black buttons. Below, Jeremy Monson wears his bright regimental
blazer of the British Grenadier Guards with black evening
trousers. Right seen at Palm Beach, the black tuxedo is
piped ( lapel, collar , pockets with black satin, the inevitable
step before jackets of one color, piping of another
For The evening |
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The Blazer goes foulard
Here's a new chapter in our book on blazers. Its subject is foulard,
the pliable small-patterned silk which is usually reserved for
neckwear. Now we discover foulard's nice interplay of color, its
airily light weight, its resistance to creasing, make it a natural
for blazers too. The foulard pictured her is perfect for both daytime
wearing and informal country-club evenings. We saw it at the Montague
Beach Hotel in Nassau, in handsome red. Tailored by Currick and
Leiken, sold at most fine shops, it's also available in navy.

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Combinations In Colonial tan
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In light civilian disguise, uniforms worn by British Colonial
officers are turning up as leisure-time wear. For good
reasons : the color - darker than sun tan, not as green
as khaki- belongs out in the sun, and the ensembles have
a distinctively masculine look. We saw these to Palm Beach
and at Montego Bay. Above : shirt and Bermuda shorts form
a matching ensemble with the new cotton fabric shoes. Below
: a short sleeved, full-belted bush jacket replaces the
shirt.
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These three gentlemen, photographed at southern
resorts, have discovered the secret of "leisure-time formality"-
the Ascot. Wear it with a sport shirt and you're perfectly
dressed for lunch and cocktails. Matter of fact, it can be
ideal resort wear for almost any occasion. There have been
many attempts to create a neckpiece especially for sport shirts,
but Gentry knows of nothing to compare with the Ascot, in all
its variations. Some of the new designs clip on in the same
manner as a ready-tied bow
ascot makes
a comeback 
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stripes Are Black And White |
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Some liked them bold, some liked them subtle- but practically
all the well-dressed men wintering at American resorts
went for shirts with stripes, stripes combining black and
white. In lines and details most of the shirts followed
styles currently in favor. For example, Gary Cooper wears
one of the more popular types. We also suggest for your
consideration slip-over styles, knit fabrics and shirts
with horizontal stripes. Handsome in combination with virtually
any color, these shirts are especially striking when worn
with slacks or knee-length shorts of pure white.


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Come
Handsome, Wide And High |
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Four years ago some nameless hero showed
up at one of the resorts, sporting the first off-beat summer
straw. He was a man of courage, a direct descendant of
the gent who first ate an oyster- and he had just as much
foresight. He started a trend. Headgear without inhibitions
is the big motif now, as these pictures prove. We took
them at beach, race track, country club and hotel, but
we couldn't quite cover the gamut of heights, weights,
shapes and sizes; the variety's too infinite for that. They're
designed to keep you cool, to keep the sun off your face
or -most important of all- just for fun. Most of the ones
we saw were coconut, raffia and unsized panama. The bodies
are neutral tones, the bands carry colors ranging from
loud to explosive.
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socks,
shirts and
golf
On greens and fairways from Montego Bay to Palm
Beach, a new fashion phenomenon : men and women, professionals
and armatures alike, wearing the same-style sport shirt. Look at
low-handicap amateurs Thomas Shelvin and Reginald Boardman, Jr.,
about to tee off at Florida's Seminole Golf Club with former national
amateur champion Barbar Romack. All three are wearing the shirt
of the season, It's the creation of designer Rene Lacoste, former
French tennis ace. Along with the shirt you can buy Lacoste's lisle
knee socks, which stretch to any desired length. Those Mr. Boardman
is wearing are enhanced by hand-sewn cables

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The fabric shoe is the perfect unconventional match for
conventional shorts and slacks. Here are the three newest
additions to the fast-growing family of fabric shoes : I.
Cotton and rayon tween ; the upper has a rough look, the
sole and heel are leather. 2. Gondola style has upper of
lightweight cotton Madras, flexible rubber sole and heel,
and elastic instep strip. 3. Sailcloth upper is combined
with molded rubber sole and heel; sawed-off tongue gives
a special touch. All of them at least as comfortable as your
best bedroom slippers, and all by Mr. Capezio.
Stripes Are News In shoes |
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A bright new color, an exciting new imported fabric, and here's
a parka that's perfect for drying off after a swim, for protection
from sun and wind when you're on the beach, for warmth when you're
out sailing. Its color : "Seaside red." Its fabric: "Velvet
terry." It's been so named because on the inside it's pure,
absorbent terrycloth, on the outside it has velvet's soft, luxurious
look, Tailored in Denmark, photographed here at Round Hill, Montego
Bay, the parka has a full zipper front and a zip storage for change,
cigarettes and matches.
New Cloth For parkas

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New Trends In beachwear |
Big floral patterns and modernistic motifs on the way out;
restrained patterns on the way in. But beachwear will still
be colorful, as exemplified here in Alexander Shields' combination
of a single bold color with stark white. It's a wide (two-inch)
Roman stripe in a lightweight cotton Sahib robe, cut like
a Japanese kimono, and it comes with matching swim trunks,
The ensemble is worn by Sinclair Robinson at La Coquille
club in Palm Beach. Two things you can't tell from these
pictures: the pockets are inside, and the fabric is wonderfully
easy to fold for packing
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The barbecue shirt
Gentry's conversation piece-a gourmet print on a shirt designed
especially for the outdoor chef. The polished finish of the cotton
fabric makes it look exactly like freshly wiped oilcloth- and back-yard
gourmets are bound to love it. Designed and tailored by Damon Creations,
the shirt has motifs in red, rust, green, brown and black. No guarantee
that it will improve your cooking, but an odds-on favorite to make
you the best-dressed man at your next barbecue.
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